At times, surfing becomes a spiritual journey and a transformative experience. The combination of the power and beauty of the ocean, coupled with the physical act of riding a wave, can create a sense of connection and transcendence.
When you’re out on the water, catching a wave, there can be a profound moment where everything aligns perfectly—the wave, your body, and your mind. In that instant, you might feel a deep sense of harmony and unity with the natural world around you. The rush of adrenaline and the feeling of effortlessly gliding along the wave can create a unique and extraordinary sensation.
Surfing large waves has inherent risks and dangers. As the waves increase in size, so does the power and force behind them. The immense energy of these waves poses a serious threat and sometimes takes you through a traumatic spiritual journey. Over time, and over many waves, my faith grew.
Large waves break with tremendous speed and intensity, creating powerful and unpredictable conditions that can lead to drowning. I almost drowned surfing some of the largest waves in California. This was the second time the trauma of drowning almost killed me. Contemplating our mortality can catalyze spiritual reflection, exploration, and a search for meaning.
Surfing requires a certain level of trust and surrender to the power of the ocean. Similarly, in a spiritual journey, there is an element of surrendering to a higher power or a divine plan. It involves letting go of control and placing trust in something greater than oneself. Venturing into the unknown, embracing uncertainty, and stepping outside of comfort zones demonstrate trust in faith.
For some, this experience can be likened to a spiritual connection, where the boundaries between oneself and the larger universe seem to blur. It can evoke a sense of being fully present in the moment and attuned to the forces of nature. This feeling of oneness with the ocean became sacred, highlighting the natural world’s beauty and power.
Different individuals may describe and interpret these experiences in their ways. Some might see it as a form of communion with nature or a connection to something greater than themselves. Others may view it as a moment of pure joy, freedom, or a way to tap into their innermost selves.
Ultimately, the spiritual experience of riding ocean waves is profoundly personal and subjective. It’s a testament to the profound impact that nature can have on our lives and the potential for extraordinary moments of connection and transcendence that can be found in even the simplest of activities. Surfing is a spiritual journey; it became an axiom of faith and part of my soul.